Author: Eddie Case
Welcome back for another article geared specifically towards DIY basement remodeling! In today's article I want to cover building materials that I use on ALL of my basement finishing projects.
Over the last 17 years I have tried and used many different types of building materials putting my basement remodeling projects together. Some have been great products and others....well.... just plain sucked! I want to quickly run down my materials list that I use for my jobs so you will know what types of materials you will need to begin ordering yourself.
We will do this in a "natural job progression" order from beginning to completion of the project. Let's get started!
1.) Wall studs will be constructed from regular "2x4"'s either ordering 8-9-10' studs depending upon your basement ceiling height! I use an air-nail gun loaded with 3-1/4" framing nails for all of my framing projects! If hand nailing walls use 16 penny gauge nails to fasten studs to top and bottom plates.
2.) Wall top and bottom plates: Bottom plates (the ones on the concrete floor) will be "treated lumber". Treated lumber will NOT ROT when exposed to concrete like regular "pine lumber" does. I order 2"x4"x16'-0" treated lumber for these bottom plates. The top plates (the ones that I nail to the bottom of the 1st floor joist of the existing house) I just order regular 2'x4"x16'-0" lumber the same as the wall studs.
3.) I use regular interior wiring for all outlets and light fixtures. I am buying standard 12-2 or 14-2 gauge 250' rolls of these types of wiring. Use the "blue" nail-on "new construction" electric boxes for all outlets and switch boxes that you will be wiring. More on why 12-2 vs. 14-2 wiring and how to physically wire your new basement project in another training video
4.) I use regular craft-face 3-1/2" fiberglass insulation to insulate my new wall cavities. Owens Corning brand. I buy the 12 piece pre-cut bundles instead of the continuous rolls because it's easier to work with! Buy the correct electric staple gun w/ 1/4" staples to fasten your insulation to the wall studs securing it into place.
5.) I use "new construction" 6" recessed lighting "canisters" for almost all of my new basement ceiling lighting fixtures. Just spread the brackets and nail them up between the existing floor joists and then wire them to code. I discuss wiring in complete detail in another video series.
6.) I still like copper plumbing lines installed on my jobs. I use 1/2" and 3/4" copper lines to supply water to all of my bathroom and wet bar plumbing fixtures.
7.) For bars I can't drain easily I use a Tray Pump to pump sink water "up-n-out" to the waste lines. For bathroom that I can not drain normally I use a "Sewage Ejector" pump to flush bathroom waist water up-n-out to the regular home waste lines. Different pumps for different pluming needs are used quit frequently when dealing with plumbing necessities "below grade"!
8.) I use standard 1/2" drywall on all walls, ceilings, and soffits in all finished areas of the new job, except in the bathroom areas where there is a higher level of moisture. I use 1/2" M.R. (moisture resistant) board in my bathrooms to combat the moisture levels. I screw and glue all of my drywall with 1-1/4" drywall screws and drywall construction adhesive, this make for a strong bond to all wooden surfaces and prevents "nail-pops"!
9.) I use standard wooden pine trim (stain-grade(clear) and paint-grade(f.j. finger-jointed)) for all of the base trim, window and door trim, chair rail, crown molding.
10.) I use 3/4" birch-ply plywood for all built-in bookcases, stereo racks, entertainment wall built-ins, etc... You can either paint or stain this material. It's durable and beautiful to work with.
11.) For the flooring material I use a 6-pound commercial padding and a Berber carpet. I also use ceramic tile in all of my bathroom, bar and entrance door areas. Occasionally I use a wood floor product called Pergo to simulate wooden flooring when requested by the client
12.) I use wooden stair and banister products to finish-off all of my stairway areas
13.) I always finish my entrances to the basement area from the first floor with a "full-light 15 pane tempered glass door to add style and additional day light to the basement stairway.
That pretty much covers 95% of all of the different types of materials that I have been using for the last 17 years as a full-time basement remodeling specialist!
If you would like more information and ideas about basement remodeling visit: http://www.1Basement.com
Here's to "Living Down Under"!
Edward Case
About the Author:
Since 1992 Ed Case has remodeled 350+ basements in the Harrisburg PA region. Ed is an expert in basement conversion projects and high-end basement interior design. Ed regularly holds training classes designed to teach local home owners in the Harrisburg PA region how to remodel their own basements successfully!
